The Process
The Wood
It begins with timber selection. I only use sustainably sourced wood — Australian species from fallen trees or managed forests, and timber from PEFC-certified forests where local supply isn't available. Before I cut anything, I read the grain. Which direction it runs through a piece determines where and how I use it. Grain aligned with the structure is strong. Grain that crosses it isn't.
Shaping
Round components — rungs, legs, stretchers — are turned on a lathe using chisels and gouges. The lathe spins the wood; the hand controls the tool. It takes time to develop an eye for when a turned form is right.
Turning
Many of the parts for my chairs are created on a lathe. They’re turned round with a variety of chisels and gouges. While the machine turns the wood, turning is very much an art of the hand.
Joinery
The joinery used for my chairs is all traditional. You won’t find anything that can be tightened with a screwdriver. Just wood and glue. Joints used are very strong and last a very long time. The reason for this is that wood moves through seasonal changes, it responds to the atmosphere around it. When you use a wood to wood joint, it moves together as one preventing imbalances and loosening.
Steambending
Chairs are curved because bodies are curved. The most direct way to introduce a curve into timber is to cut it — but cutting across the grain significantly reduces strength. Steam bending works differently: the wood is softened with heat and moisture, then bent around a form. The grain follows the curve rather than crossing it, keeping the strength of the original fibre intact.
Finishing
I finish with natural oils. The goal is to let the timber stay as close to its natural state as possible — colour and grain open, not buried under a film finish. Sometimes I ebonise the wood instead. When I do, the finish penetrates rather than coats, so the grain texture remains visible and changes with the light.
Danish Cord
Some seats are woven in Danish cord — 3-ply twisted paper cord, the material used in Danish mid-century seating. It's harder-wearing than it sounds, develops a rich patina with use, and comes in natural or black. I weave in several patterns; the choice of pattern changes the surface texture and the visual weight of the seat.
Caring for Danish Cord
Danish cord is wax-coated and moderately resistant to dirt. Avoid leaving it damp. If you spill something, wipe it quickly with a damp microfibre cloth and dry it straight away.
On Sustainable Timber
I only use wood from sustainable sources. Australian timber I use typically comes from trees felled in storms or cleared by farmers — not harvested commercially. Imported species are always PEFC certified.